Mike Pannell email@example.com
This area is _very_ much under construction. I have loads of ideas,
and not enough time as usual. Get in touch if you have something to say.
1.6 HF Turbo
2.0 HF Turbo 4WD
2.0 HF Integrale 8v
2.0 HF Integrale 16v
2.0 HF Integrale 16v Evolution
2.0 HF Integrale 16v Evolution 2
What to look for
There are a number of areas to look at when considering buying a Lancia
Delta. The following categories are all worth checking:
Paintwork and rust
The Delta was introduced towards the end of Lancia's Rust Problem.
The rust protection was improved year on year, with the later models giving
little trouble. It is therefore important to thoroughly check all early
Deltas in the following places:
Front screen area
There is a tendency for the front pillars to rust around the front windscreen.
This should always be checked and attended to. If ignored this rust will
affect the rigidity of the body and ultimately your safety.
Rear tailgate and roof
The small lip of steel above the rear tailgate before it turns over onto
the roof often rusts. This is caused by the design of the seal on the rear
tailgate. There is a rubber strip along the top of this opening where water
can sit. If some grit collects in here as well, the water and grit attach
the bottom of this root piece causing rust. This area is hard to cure,
and requires new metal welding into the affected area. Unfortunately the
roof is quite thin, and easy to warp with too much heat. Get an expert
MIG welder to do it for you, it really is quite tricky.
Some people have suggested removing the rubber from the top of the tailgate
to stop this happening. The problem with this, is that you then get some
wind noise in the back and this does not seem to be a satisfactory solution.
The leading edge of the front doors can also give problems. There are three
skins of steel here, and stopping the rust of hard. Even welding a new
plate in is not a solution, as the rust continues from behind. The only
solution appears to be to cut this area right out and clean it all up.
Rear wheel arches
Check for rust on the rear wheel arches, especially on the front. The joint
between the inner & outer wheel arch is not very good, and consequently
rusts. The inside wheel arch also rusts around the sealing plugs fitted
for access into the sills.
Furthermore check the rear suspension turrets for rust as these can rot through.
Where top of turret
meets inner webbing of quarter panel it can corrode badly. You need to take out boot
carpet that covers tool case and houses water reservoir for windscreen wipers,
all will become clear.
All the turbo charged cars were fitted completely with disc brakes, and
only the smaller models having rear drum brakes.
It is the rear disc brakes that often give cause for inspection. A lot
of dirt is thrown up from the road and the calipers will eventually start
seize up. It is possible to re-seal the rear calipers, but this only gives
The rear calipers are also used for the handbrake. The cable for this
device can give problems as do the calipers. It is worth checking the
handbrake works both rear wheels properly, before you leave the car on
a steep hill!
All the petrol turbo engines can suffer from turbo damage. It is imperative
to follow the recommended service intervals, and use good synthetic oil
to maximise the lifetime of your turbo. Unfortunately, with a used car
you have no guarantee that the previous owner has looked after the turbo.
If the car is more than 5 years old, then it is within the age band
where a replacement turbo is common. There are many cars going around that
still have the original turbo, but generally the exception.
To check the turbo, use the following guidelines:
When viewing the car, start the engine as soon as you arrive to give the
engine plenty of time to warm up.
When the engine oil is warm (the oil pressure will drop very low when warmed
up), go for a test drive.
In a suitably high gear, fully depress the throttle. The turbo should spin
up easily (~2000 rpm on HF turbo, ~2500rpm on Integrale) and a little boost
pressure visible on the gauge.
As the engine speed picks up, the turbo pressure should increase progressively
achieving full boost at about 3000rpm.
If the boost pressure comes on late (higher engine revs) then this could
indicate either a worn or unbalanced turbo which would require attention.
Delta HF Turbo only - In a suitable high gear, and your foot mostly
depressed on the accelerator the turbo should be steady at about 0.6 bar.
Now completely floor the accelerator, an orange light should indicate on
the dashboard and the boost gauge should jump to about 0.85 bar. This should
be accompanied with a noticeable boost in acceleration. Do not leave this
light on for more than a couple of seconds.
Keep an eye in the rear view mirror when on boost for any smoke.
Maintain full boost for a few seconds, then take you foot off. Let the
engine run on for a bit, and then put your foot down again. If you get
a puff of smoke, the oil seals could be slightly worn. This is not quite
so serious, and it is common for Deltas to have poor oil return system
to remove the oil.
The Deltas are usually quite mechanically strong, however some attention
should be paid to the following areas :
Cam belt - All Lancia twin cam engines should have regular cam belt changes.
Some people advocate a change every 30000 miles, I change mine every 2
years even if I have only done 15k.
Gearbox / linkage - The early (carb) HF turbos used a ZF gearbox similar
to that used in the Fiat Strada 130TC. This box is not particularly strong,
nor is the linkage mechanism used (apparently 3rd is the weakest
gear on these boxes). The latter fuel injected cars use a different gearbox
and linkage. With the newer gearboxes, it is still not uncommon to have
a stiff second gear when the car is cold.
VAE valve - This valve controls the amount of direct air allowed into the
engine. At idle speeds it it not uncommon for the engine speed to hunt
up and down a little. If the idle speed is way out or hunts excessively,
this valve will need repairing or replacing.
Oil cooler - The turbo injected Deltas have an oil cooler. Without exception
the unions on the end of the oil pipes will corrode. If left unchecked
you will find yourself in the position where they will spring a leak. Check
them out for surface rust and treat as necessary. If you do need
to replace an oil hose, you will probably find the steel gland is corroded
onto the cooler. You will probably strip the thread on the cooler
getting the pipe off; if you do you need a new cooler or Barry Waterhouse
can rethread it for you.
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